PVD, IP and gold plating

Most gold-coloured and black watches in the price range we carry are steel with a coating, not solid gold — a few have real gold, and then the carat is stated in the name and specifications (e.g. 18 carat on the bezel). PVD (physical vapour deposition) and IP (ion plating) are modern methods in which a very thin, hard layer (e.g. titanium nitride in a gold tone or black) is applied to the steel in a vacuum. It is far more durable than old-fashioned gilding and does not turn your skin green, but on edges and bracelet links that rub against a desk it can wear through after some years — and then the steel shows underneath.

A worn coating cannot be polished back (polishing removes more). It is listed as "PVD", "IP" or "gold-coloured" in the specifications; solid gold would be stated in carats (14 ct, 18 ct) — and cost ten times as much. See gold-coloured watches.

If you have a question about a particular watch, ask Nord, our assistant, at the bottom right — or write to us.